W
Issue 02 ·

Desserts · Japan · east-asia

Dorayaki

どら焼き (銅鑼焼き)

Two honey -amber pancakes about the size of a coaster, pressed around a fat slick of sweet red-bean paste — the wagashi that became a Showa-era childhood and the canonical favourite of a robot cat from the future.

Japaneast-asia cake Vegetarian
Sweet
4/5
Spice
0/5
Era
20th century
Format
Single serve
Borrowed from a 1914 Tokyo shop, immortalised by a manga in 1969, and now eaten by 1.2 billion people who saw the cartoon.

Origin

Dorayaki’s name comes from dora(銅鑼), a flat gong — the shape and the cooked colour of the pancake match it closely. The most-cited origin story credits a Meiji-era retainer of Saigō Takamori with cooking sweet pancakes on his commander’s gong; food historians treat this as charming fiction.

The modern two-pancake-and-bean-paste construction was codified by Ueno Usagiya in Tokyo in 1914 . Earlier dorayaki was open-faced — one pancake folded over filling — and varied wildly in size and sweetness. Usagiya’s standardised sandwich form spread quickly through Taishō- and early Showa-era Tokyo and is now the canonical shape.

FIG. 01

What it is

Two thin pancakes, roughly 7 to 8 cm in diameter , made from a honey-sweetened batter of wheat flour, egg, sugar, and sometimes mirin or rice wine for fragrance. Cooked one side at a time on a flat griddle until the surface is the colour of a polished gong — a deep amber-brown — then sandwiched in pairs around about 40 g of tsubu-an or koshi-an red-bean paste.

The pancake should be slightly springy, with a faint honey caramelisation on the cooked face. The bean paste should fill the sandwich completely without leaking. A good dorayaki has a 2:1 ratio of paste to combined pancake thickness — anything less feels under-filled, anything more turns the cake into a wrapper.

FIG. 02

Cultural context

Dorayaki occupies a peculiar position in Japanese sweet-food memory: it is both a serious wagashi (Usagiya is a venerable Ueno institution with a queue most weekends) and an everyday after-school snack (every Japanese supermarket has multiple industrial brands). Children growing up in Showa-era Japan ate dorayaki the way American children ate Oreos.

That memory was permanently fused with the manga character Doraemon , whose 1969 debut declared dorayaki his favourite food. The animation that followed spread the cake through Korea, Taiwan, mainland China, Southeast Asia, and Latin America, where dorayaki is now found in supermarkets that have never carried any other Japanese sweet.

FIG. 03

Variations

The two ankos remain dominant — tsubu-an with whole beans, koshi-an sieved — but contemporary makers have multiplied the options. Kuri dorayaki embeds a chestnut piece; uguisu dorayaki uses sweet green-pea paste; cream dorayaki mixes whipped cream with the anko; matcha dorayaki tints the pancake green and pairs it with white-bean paste.

Bakery-format variants — sometimes called mikasa in Kansai, after the gong-shaped Mt Mikasa — keep the construction identical but vary the diameter and the proportion of honey in the batter.

FIG. 04

How it’s made

The batter is rested for at least an hour after mixing — unrested batter produces flat, dense pancakes with no honey aroma . The griddle is heated to around 180°C, brushed lightly with oil, and the batter is ladled in disc-by-disc, each disc cooked one side only.

Timing is the entire craft. The vendor watches for the first appearance of bubbles across the surface — that is the signal to flip; flipped too early and the second side over-cooks; flipped too late and the first side hardens. Roughly 90 seconds on the first side, 30 on the second. Assemble while still warm so the pancakes adhere to the paste.

References

The 1914 Ueno Usagiya origin is documented in Hara Shobō ’s Tokyo Wagashi Encyclopedia (2010) and in the shop’s own publications. The Doraemon-dorayaki cultural impact is analysed in Susan Napier ’s Anime: From Akira to Howl’s Moving Castle (Palgrave Macmillan, 2005 ). Manga-historical accounts of the 1969 debut appear in Shogakukan archival materials.

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